Peg in Italy

This is an account of a family adventure that began on or about January 21, 2006 when we all sat at Whistler's nursing our beers, lamenting the state of our finances and deciding to throw caution to the wind, let a seed develop and bloom!

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Location: UnderDogWoman sings in my church choir, NJ

I live a rather quiet, unassuming life - in fact, it can be downright normal at times. I check the obituaries everyday. I can do some pretty amazing things but it all comes down to this: I'm the one cleaning the bathrooms on the weekend!

Friday

September 22, 2006. The journey begins!

So, we are driving in Italy... in truth, Mark is driving. We’re all praying. Our plan to get a train to Venice fell through immediately. The plane arrived late in Rome and then all the trains to Venice were filled. So, we rented a car. It is a nine passenger Opel and it is very roomy for us and our luggage. In truth, it will cost as much as the train fare would have cost and we’ll have the added advantage of flexibility.
As I said, we got in to Rome at 9:00am and by the time we got our luggage and got on the treno for Termini Stazione, it was 10:30. We went to the ticket vendors and that’s when we made the decision to rent. The first few car rental agencies didn’t have anything big enough or even any cars available We were at our wits end and then we all said a prayer as we walked up to a man who had just told someone he had no cars today. “What about a van?” we asked. And here we are.
Shelden was hungry so we went to a little café bar and had panini. Shelden and I had chicken cutlet with tomato, mozzarella and lettuce – oh yeah, Shelden skipped the mozzarella and tomato. Vicki and Mark had prosciutto and mozzarella – not sure what Sue and Jerry had.
We got on the road and I immediately started dozing. We decided to stop at an Auto-Grille where Mark and Vicki got incredible pepperoni pizza. I got an espresso and a bottle of water... Jerry and Shel got Cokes.
SO we are now on the A-1 driving north hoping to reach Venice by 6. We actually tried to call the hotel to tell them we’d be later than anticipated, but couldn’t figure out the phone system. Some folks are having trouble with the toilets as well.

Saturday

September 23, 2006. Venice

We made it here. How? Only God knows! Mark has returned to his roots! We have determined that he is not a bad driver… just a driver born in the wrong country. His driving, here in Italy is perfectly acceptable… including his refusal to let a guy in a Kia Sorrento in front of us in a long line of traffic – right down to him yelling “Asshole” to the poor Italian! Dad would be proud. And of course, Shelden threatening, "Mark, I have a Coke bottle back here and if you let that guy in front of us, I'll throw it at you!", I think that maybe had something to do with it as well!
The Auto-Grille continue to be a source of amazement for me. The quality of the food is superior and the café bar is crowded with men sipping their afternoon espresso.
Our arrival in Venice was also an experience. After parking in Tronchetto, we had a little difficulty finding the vaporetta stop. But we persisted and finally arrived at our hotel at 9:00 pm, local time.
We grabbed quick showers and met downstairs for a late dinner. We went to a little osteria in the neighborhood of our hotel. We had a delightful dinner and vino rosso and were serenaded by some musicians! We walked around the neighborhood and sat on the steps of the Church of San Simeon and people watched!
Day 1 Pictures - Rome to Venice
This morning, we had some breakfast and are off to explore the city!

September 23, 2006. The key to successful travel is flexibility.

If something doesnt work, figure out the best alternative and go with it.We caught the vaporetta (the water bus) just across from our hotel and made our way to Piazza San Marco. It was kind of overcast, damp muggy, actually, and the boat ride was refreshing. As we disembarked, we passed Harry's Bar and the mask vendors and artists who line the walk way to the main square in Venice. We passed a young man lying in a sleeping bag on the canal side of the pavement. On the pavement, within his reach, stood a fifth of whiskey, a liter of Coca-Cola and a pack of Marlboro Lights. Mark commented, as you can imagine, "Buddy, you've got exactly what you need right in front of you!" "And a bedroom", I thought, "with an incredible view!"
We arrived in Saint Mark's square mid-morning which is not the best time to be there because it was filled with people just like us. Tons of people. More people, I think, than I have ever seen there. And it is also the time of the Alta Aqua, high water, which causes flooding in the piazza. The shop vendors actually lay out ramps, so people can walk around the square and not get wet. We did see many people wading barefoot through the water. You know me, it made me skeeve.
It was very difficult to stick to our plan of visiting the campanile (bell tower), the Palazzo Ducale (Doges Palace) and the island of Burano. This was simply because we were six people with varying interests and needs. Who wanted cigars? Who wanted a flash for the camera? Who had to pee? Who wanted well, you see how it goes!
We did finally walk into the palace and began to tour. Again, having varied interests, we got separated many times. The art was impressive the rooms, themselves, interesting. Vicki wrote down something in every room. Sue plowed ahead with pages from Rick Steves tour book, explaining each rooms so we didnt have to read every single detail.This was my 1st visit to the palace and I wasn't disappointed with the prison and the famous Bridge of Sighs. Mark sang a bit of the Robin Trower album for us.By this time, we were ready for some pranzo (lunch).
We found our way to a pizzeria, sat down inside (in Italy, it actually costs more to eat outside!) and made the mistake of asking for a pizza menu and table wine instead of ordering a full, four course lunch and bottled wine. Our waiter changed, faster than you could say Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. He rudely ignored us and we were just about to get up and leave when he finally took our order. Another waiter delivered it and ended up servicing us. He got the tip!
We did visit the Bell Tower, with its panoramic views of Venice, and St Marks Church, where I said prayers for my family and friends. And then, we boarded a vaporetta that, we thought, went to Burano. We ended up on the island of Lido which turned out to be quite pleasant. We walked straight through to the other end of the island and rested on the beach where we entertained by a man in a teeny bikini who seemed to be strutting like a peacock all the while showing his butt crack.
By the time we returned to Venice, it was nearly dinner time so we decided to look for the restaurant where we planned on eating. It was near the Rialto but in quiet hidden area. A quick perusal of the menu and we knew Shelden wouldnt find anything to eat. SO we decided to get lost and take our chances. We did find a nice little restaurant, ate a nice dinner with vino rosso and a very nice after drink that taste like limoncello but was milky in appearance.
As we were walking back to the Rialto, we noticed Mark was missing. Jerry joked, Maybe he found some he knows! Now, its not impossible to be in a foreign country and find someone you know. Mark was seeing people all over Rome and Venice and even asked some of them, Do you shop at the Cinnaminson Acme? I swear! Once, Shelden and I traveled to Ireland. I met a former student and her children as we waited for the plane home in Dublin Airport.
It seemed that we had waited quite a while so we walked back to find Mark. There he was- sitting at a table at a restaurant on the Grand Canal talking to an old high school classmate and her husband. I hadnt seen Ann Boland in years probably since she was in the musicals I directed at the high school. We all spent some time catching up, being astounded that Mark, walking with is back to where Ann was sitting, happened to turn around and recognize her. Remembering that Mark had frizzy long hair and wore glasses with adhesive tape on the earpiece or bridge, Ann said If we had known you were going to be so good looking when you grew up, we wouldve been nicer to you! We left Ann and her husband and boarded the vaporetta for Piazza San Marco.
It was as I remembered at night. The lights in the square, the orchestras battling for customers, a bride and groom (from NJ, no less) having a portrait drawn by one of the street artists - the magic that is truly Venice.As one orchestra finished, I heard the next orchestra begin the opening phrase of the Suite from the opera, Carmen. Without even realizing, I moved over to get a better view and sound. And then the tears began, Memories of my grandparents listening to opera on the radio, the first trip to Venice, the sheer magnitude of the realization that I was here again in the city I love.
All too soon, we left San Marco for the last time (this trip) and headed back to our hotel.
Pictures from Venice
More pictures from Venice

Sunday

September 24, 2006. This morning, we are on the road to Florence.

Jerry is in the driver's seat with Mark navigating. We said our goodbyes to Venice and made it back to the parking lot, marveling at how easy it was in daylight! Leaving Venice
The drive to Florence was uneventful, although we stopped again at an AutoGrille for a quick lunch. More sandwiches and bottles of water and we were off. Jerry drove well and we got into Florence after a little episode at a circle.
Unfortunately navigating in Florence is not an easy task and it appears, in hindsight, that we circled our hotel for a good 45 minutes. We got settled in our hotel and soon were asking the clerk for a good place to eat. He directed us to a neighborhood trattoria. Shelden ordered a grilled t-bone which I shared with him. Sue, Jerry, Mark and I ordered ribollita, a Tuscan bread soup that kicks butt! Mark ordered wild boar. Vicki got gnocchi with a crab sauce. We had more wine and limoncello. When we mentioned that we were from Hotel Enza, the waiter comped us biscotti and Grand Marnier.
Then we stopped at a bar and had cocktails sitting outside while the guys smoked their cigars. We agreed to meet in the lobby at 8:30 for breakfast. If anyone was more than 10 minutes late, whoever was ready would get going. Those left behind would be on their own!

Monday

September 25, 2006. Getting a plan together can be fun!

This morning, we were awakened by a knock on the door and Vicki saying, Where are you guys? Its 9:30? Apparently our alarm didnt go off but neither did Sue and Jerrys! WE showered quickly and were ready for breakfast in no time. We went to a nearby bar and had cappuccino and breakfast. Shel actually had eggs!
Then we were off for sightseeing the Duomo and Baptistry, the San Lorenzo market, the Straw Market. We went through the area of the Ufizzi but it was closed on Mondays, however, we did go into the Museum of Science. We saw lots of cool stuff old thermometers, telescopes, Galileos middle finger, loads of mechanical stuff old lathes, calculators, etc.
We walked over the Ponte Vecchio and over to the Boboli Gardens also closed on the last Monday of the month. We did go in and out of lots of little shops and artisans stores. We also went into a nursery and saw a small olive tree with olives already on it!
It seems like we walked all day except for lunch, which we decided to eat like Italians first course of pasta, second course of meat, side dishes, wine, espresso but too stuffed for dessert.
We are back at our hotel, getting ready to have a light snack of pizza and gelati!

Florence

Tuesday

September 26, 2006. More flexibility…

We have realized that the plans we made in March may have been a bit aggressive. Dad warned me that we might not get it all done. And so, we cancelled our night in Assisi and were able to get an extra night in our Florence hotel, Hotel Enza. The hotel has lots of paintings on the walls and many staircases, nooks and crannies, where rooms are situated. Old dark rooms with doors that lock from the inside with the key. You can get breakfast at the hotel, but we opted for some local flavor by going to a neighborhood bar for prima colazione. Shelden was able to get eggs, toast, OJ and a cappuccino for 6 euro!
Tuesday, we decided to do some different things. Mark and Vicki wanted to go to some of the art museums and shop. Sue, Jerry, Shelden and I wanted to go to Lucca but first we needed to do some laundry. I wasn’t sure of the plan so I got up, showered and went to find an open Laundromat. Shelden suggested one on Via Nazionale but it was closed. So I walked around and found one on Via Guelpha ( Shelden calls it Via Goofy). Sue and Jerry were just getting there as well. I asked where Vicki was and Jerry said they were stuck in there room because when he knocked on the door, Vicki tried to unlock the door and the key broke off in the lock.
They were able to get out of their room using tweezers and a gadget on the end of Shelden’s pocket watch. Mark and Vicki went to the Museo del Opera del Duomo which is right behind Santa Maria Dei Fiore, the Cathedral in Florence. The Duomo is built from 3 different types of Italian Marble. It is a beautiful sight, white, pink and green marble. The Duomo has an amazing dome that was engineered at a time when the architect didn’t have the tools we have today and yet it stands perfectly.
Across from the Duomo is the Baptistery. It is a smaller structure made of the same marble. The doors are made of bronze and were sculpted using mathematical principals to achieve a true 3-d effect.
To me, this whole area is overwhelming. The size of the Duomo is eerie!
Mark and Vicki also visited Piazza della Republica, the bell tower, the Bargello, which used to be a prison and is now a national museum housing the works of Michelangelo, Donatello, Ceillini, and the Loggia Dei Lanzi. They trekked all over these areas and finally climbed the mountain to the Piazzalle, Michelangelo.
After we finished our laundry, we walked to the train stazione and bought tickets for Lucca. Lucca is a walled city – not very large, but filled with beauty and people whizzing up and down the hills on bicycles and motor scooters. Cars are also allowed for travel in the city of Lucca; however it must be difficult as the streets are so narrow. Every corner, in fact, has large metal bars the size of tree trunks, many with scrapes on them. I suspect those bars have saved many a corner of a building in Lucca. We had a wonderful pranzo, did some shopping and then Shelden, Jerry and Sue climbed a tower which had a garden at the top, complete with trees and a magnificent view of the town and surroundings. We were going to rent bikes and ride around the city on the ramparts, but it was getting late. So we stood in line for tickets for the return trip.
Lucca
People will tell you that Italians are very laid back and like to get things done in their own time. As we stood in line at the single open window for tickets, trying to get tickets for the 5:32 back to Florence, a man who stood two people in front of us was trying to get tickets to Pisa. There may have been some issue because he was speaking loudly and rapidly to the ticket man who often answered back loudly and rapidly. I glanced over the shoulder of the people in front of us and noticed he was trying to get tickets for SATURDAY!!!! At the height of rush hour! And it wasn’t going smoothly.
We did get back to Florence and left a note for Mark and Vicki to meet us for dinner. We went to a little Osteria and Mark walked in, said they’d already eaten and were at the Laundromat, stop by when we were done. When we arrived at the Laundromat, Mark and Vicki greeted us with paper cups full of wine, introduced us to another American couple who had their own wine, and invited us to share with them!
Ah, Italia!

Wednesday

September 27, 2006. The BooBoo de Boboli…

We had wanted to go to Siena and Assisi, but we also wanted to see the David at the Accademia, the Boboli Gardens and some of the Pitti Palace. Our reservation for the Accademia fell smack, dab in the middle of Wednesday, so Siena seemed impossible. We have gotten to the point where we are now saying “Ok... next trip.” – EVEN Shelden is saying it! Speaking of Shelden – he hasn’t gone into a McDonald’s yet!
SO Wednesday dawned and we all got out of our rooms without incident. We walked down to our little Cafe/Bar for our colazione. Here, we are able to order “international breakfast” of eggs, toast coffee, OJ, even ham and bacon. I usually order a panini of cheese and tomato and cappuccino, although this morning I opt for eggs and toast.
We headed to the Boboli Gardens, intending to have lunch afterwards, go to see the David and then split up in the afternoon so that Sue, Jerry and I could go up to the Piazzale Michelangelo and maybe shop at the San Lorenzo Market.
The Boboli Gardens were beautiful; you can climb up the mountain to the top and see some great views of Florence. When we got up to the top, we saw some students painting bisque stepping stones with views of the sky and surrounding buildings and gardens. We found out they were students from the University of Richmond, not art majors, but they were taking an art class in Florence. Looking over their shoulders, many were doing work that was quite good… and they seemed to like their projects.
Boboli Gardens
We spent a beautiful sunny morning at the Gardens. Shelden and Jerry left to go get our reservations for the Accademia. Mark, Sue, Vicki and I went in search of a toilette. We were following signs and Mark had just said “I’m feeling a little funky today.” I think the wine in the Laundromat the night before may have done him in! We girls found a sign for the toilettes, and Mark said, “I think it’s this way.” But we didn’t hear him or chose to ignore him and found them ourselves.
We came out of the ladies room and waited for Mark… then realized after 5 or so minutes he must have gone upstairs. The girls went ahead to look for him and I bought waters for all of us. When I came out, they still hadn’t found Mark. Vicki went back downstairs, Sue and I stood at the exit. Then we started going in and out of the entrance, until I positioned my self at the exit, and Sue went out onto the campo. After 50 minutes of searching, Sue said “I better go find Jerry and Shelden and tell them what’s up.” Vicki and I hung around, got the bathroom attendants to open all the stalls so we could make sure he hadn’t passed out or gotten sick. Then Vicki made three announcements over the paging system. Alas, Mark was no where to be seen. I was getting the feeling that maybe he had gotten pissed off and left on his own. Vicki was sure he wouldn’t have left us. “I wouldn’t leave!!! Would you leave, Peg?” Of course, I wouldn't!
Finally, we decided to walk back to the hotel in hopes that he would be there. We had just crossed the Ponte Vecchio when we saw him… We’ll just say that my feeling was correct and he was still madder than the wild boar in the Straw Market.
When we reached the meeting place, Sue was sitting at an outdoor table drinking a glass of wine. I quickly joined her and plugged into my I-POD thu avoiding any unpleasant conversation.
The Accademia is a wonderful museum and while the David is the main event, there are some other points of interest. I was particularly captivated by the rooms of antique instruments, complete with listening devices so you could here a serpentine or viol da gamba being played. There were also Contrabasses from the 16th century and some older cellos and violins.
Also at the museum are the unfinished works of Michelangelo, “The Prisoners” He was sculpting these 7 or so statues for the tomb of one of the popes (I can’t remember which one) but had to leave these works to start the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. These sculptures are still impressive and show the anguish of being imprisoned by not-so-nice inner qualities.
We did some shopping and then went up to the Piazzale Michelangelo to see the city from another vantage point and also to see the bronze David.
Florence and the Piazzale Michelangelo
We had dinner and then Vicki, Mark, Jerry and Shelden headed out to the little corner bar of our first night in Florence and Sue and I headed back to the hotel to prepare for our morning departure and for some shut-eye.
Tomorrow, Roma!

Thursday

September 28, 2006. The Banana Stand and other vendors
In Italy, and other European countries, I’m guessing, there is a vendor for every facet of life. There are no “super” Acmes, no Walmarts, no Macys.
There is the gelateria, my personal favorite, where they sell gelato, the shoe store, the electronics store, the clothing store, the farmacia (pharmacy), the tabacchi (tobacco store, that also sells bus and metro tickets), the cosmetics store, the butcher, the alimentari, a sort of general food store but tiny. There are street vendors everywhere and they sell newspapers, bibite (beverages) maybe sandwiches and fruit, maybe gelato.
For eating, there are bars which serve liquor but the real function is as a café. Prices are different if you order al banco, standing at the bar, or al tavolo, sitting at a table being “waited” on. There are pizzerie, a more casual sit-down restaurant where you can order pizza and other foods. There are tavolo calda, meaning “hot table” where you can take food to a table cafeteria-style. There are also osterie, where you can get a basic pasta dish and wine, trattorie, where you can get a simple full meal, and ristoranti, that are fancier.
And then there are the Auto-Grille, found on major highways like our turnpike rest stops, but Molly Pitcher never had food like the Auto-Grille!
We left Florence on Thursday morning and began our drive to Rome, stopping at the Auto Grille for a quick breakfast. The trip was without incident and we actually were able to find Termini Rail Station and return the rental car quite easily.
We walked out front of the station to the cab stand and Jerry remarked – “That was too easy!” There was a pretty long line for cabs and there seemed to be some disturbance to our left.
Sure enough, there was a demonstration. We never were able to determine their “cause” but Sue and I remembered, 3 years back, a man caused a lot of confusion near the Coliseum because he was threatening to jump. The police stood below him with a net and others tried to grab him. Seems the Italians will demonstrate or go on strike at the drop of a hat! We were the unfortunate victims of their latest cause. They had the entrance to the station blocked – the entrance for taxis and buses… so no one was leaving the station.
Somehow, we got bus tickets and found the 64 bus, ran to Via Nazionale where it was supposedly picking up riders, and then, ran back to the area where it was scheduled to pick up riders.
All six of us, luggage in tow, squished onto this bus filled with other commuters, some with luggage, some with briefcases, and some with shopping bags. For those of you a little claustrophobic, it would’ve been out and out torture. At this point, we could only laugh.
Luckily we had directions to the apartment we rented and were happily surprised when our bus stop was just past St Peter’s Square.
Unfortunately, it had been a long time since Shelden had eaten and he walked up to a street vendor intending to buy a Coke to raise his blood sugar. He must have started to crash because he fell onto the ledge of the cart, knocking over a basket of bananas, while reaching for his Coke. He weaved his way up to where we were waiting and handed me the Coke to open because he was shaking so bad. I also gave him a pack of peanut butter crackers. In no time, he was as good as new, but had a real scare!
We got settled in our apartment and ventured out for lunch. Right next door is a Chinese restaurant but another door down was a little tratoria. We ordered pranzo with wine of course and then made our way down to the Vatican.
We stood in line to get in to St Peter’s and were soon in awe. The piazza, itself, is wonderful but inside the church, it is just a wonder. We saw so many amazing sculptures including one of Michelangelo’s Pietas. We also saw the Bernini columns, the ceiling, the stained glass, the dead popes – all incredible to behold.
Unfortunately I had a bit of a medical disaster. Sweating profusely, I had to leave the church. So THIS is menopause????
Shelden and I went back to the apartment, while the others did a nice stroll of Campo De Fiore, Piazza Navona, Fontana di Trevi, Scala da Spagna and had a nice supper.

Friday

September 29, 2006. Rome – History

We were up early so we could get to the Coliseum and get in early. We took a bus to the Coliseum and then walked up the Palatine Hill to purchase our entry tickets. We breezed into the Coliseum and got our audio tour players.

The Coliseum is pretty interesting. It was built in the 70s AD and it could seat 50,000 people. It was used for gladiatorial combat. It could also be flooded for naval battles. Historians are pretty sure that there weren’t any Christians sacrificed there.

The Coliseum

Then we toured the Roman Forum. It was really neat to go through there and actually figure out what each building or ruin was. Sue used the Rick Steves tour book for the information.

The Roman Forum

We walked over to the Pantheon. They were doing some work on the marble floors but it was awesome as ever. From there, we walked over to the Trevi Fountain which was so crowded but amazing.

Did I mention this yet? Every fountain in Rome is fed by aqueducts. The water is so refreshing and delicious. We would fill our water bottles often.

We walked over to the Spanish steps and played Where’s Waldo with Vicki. We all went into the McDonald’s which is the largest in the world apparently. It looks like the Coliseum inside. Shelden refused to set foot in there! It was so funny!


Rome

We took the Metro back to our apartment.

The apartment is located about 2 blocks from the Vatican. It must have been very nice at one time, but it was very dark… mainly because there were a lot of burnt out light bulbs. Also there are only windows on one side of the apartment – the side that faces the street, which, by the way, is a main thoroughfare, particularly for ambulances that scream past our open windows at night.

That being said, it was a little tough to fall asleep, but I was pretty exhausted at night so it really didn’t bother me TOO much!

Saturday

September 30, 2006 The Sixteen Chapel
Somehow, Shelden and I missed the wake up for the Sistine Chapel. We were able to catch up with the others as we walked over to get in line. I don’t want to complain, but it was a long line, a long wait and our favorite angry young man almost got in a fight with a Frenchman for butting in front of us in line.
This line is also a great place to see gypsies and beggars. One old nonna came up to us, all bent over, moaning “O, Dio mio.” She was dressed entirely in black and her hand was outstretched. On her back, was a back pack and I noticed a water bottle in it. As she looked up at us, the entire right side of her head showed her raw scalp. I guess she pulled all the hair out of that side of her head… or she was wearing a wig – I think the latter. Oh, Dio mio, it was ugly.
There was also the beggar with the deformed limbs and the gypsy with the baby in her arms. Oh, and the kid playing the accordion, who, I swear, was there three years ago!
Well, we finally got in after 2 hours, went through the Vatican Museum with it’s gorgeous rooms and ceilings. And then – the Sistine Chapel or Sixteen Chapel as Shelden called it.
Rome
We did some shopping in the area around the Vatican. Sue and Jerry looked for a Travel Agent so they could buy train tickets to Sorrento. Then we ventured over near Castel Sant Angelo. We started heading back to the apartment and Shelden and I realized we had no idea how we were getting to the airport in the morning.
We could take the 64 bus but we weren’t sure where it picked up. We could take the Metro, but we weren’t sure of the stop near the Vatican. We tried to reserve a cab, but they wouldn’t take the reservation because we didn’t have a phone number (because we were in an apartment, not staying at a hotel!).
We decided to take the Metro after our evening stroll over by Piazza Navona, Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. Then we could determine how far it would be to walk from the apartment.
Well, the evening was magical! We had dinner in Campo di Fiore after we determined that the folks who were demonstrating over issues in Palestine were breaking up. We walked over to Piazza Navona and were entertained by an Italian pop singer and the throngs of people.
Rome at night
When we got to the Pantheon, there was a group of teenagers singing a capella under the entry arch area. It was beautiful. Sue and I were reduced to tears when they sang “Walk Down That Lonesome Road.”
We trekked over to the Trevi Fountain and then the Spanish Steps. By this time it was11:30 so we headed for the Metro… which had shut down at 11:00!!!
Ok, we’ll take a bus… Easier said than done at 11:30 pm. We ended up walking all the way back to the apartment. I think we walked about 4 miles that night.

Sunday

October 1, 2006 Departure

So, comes the morning. We awake at 5:30 and, having showered the night before, dress quickly, pack, make a last sweep of the apartment and decide to start calling taxis. Well, as Dooner said in a comment in the first post, there’s no making phone calls in Italy. Really, the pay phones are ridiculous. Most of the time they don’t work, the other half of the time, they don’t work. We tried eight phones in the space of three blocks going up and down the Via Aurelia. None of them would work.

Kick into Plan B mode!

With the speed of Mercury, we decide to track down the elusive 64 bus…. And guess what??? We saw it making a turn right in front of us and heading for the stop in the next block. Shel yelled, “Let’s go!” and made a dash for it. He jumped on board and was surprised to see that I was right behind him! Hey, I DID run a marathon once!

Thursday

October 5, 2006 It’s all over

Sue, Jerry, Mark and Vicki made it home safely last night. It’s all over now except a little twinge from one of the blisters on my right foot. The left foot escaped unscathed. But the right foot, with it’s missing toenail and subsequent BandAid®, suffered repeated rubbing from miles of walking. Jerry even operated one night, pouring alcohol on his Swiss Army Knife and cutting through a blister to relieve the pressure.

People ask me what was the best part of the trip. Well, the sightseeing was neat, and the scenery, itself, was awesome. But truly, the best moments were the ones observing people and falling in love all over again with the Italians and their lust for life, their passion and their wine!

If I ever have the opportunity, I would love to go back for a longer time – a month, a season, a year. Well, one can dream, no?